Andalusia is Spain's southern most region having breathtaking architecture, vast farmlands, rugged mountains and stunning water-front properties along the Costa del Sol. Costa del Sol (Sun Coast) is the Spanish version of the French Riviera (equally posh!) and includes Malaga which is where we are starting our 3-article series.
I fell in love with Malaga the minute I stepped out of the airport. It was sunny and warm in the first week of January! Anyone who lives in Northern Europe knows what the first week of January looks and feels like in their respective home towns. Well, I certainly knew what I had left behind and did a happy dance as I quickly tossed my winter coat, muffler, cap and gloves in my bag! I didn't have to see them for a week and that suited me just fine!
As is the case in most tourist-friendly European cities, you don't have to hire a cab or rent a car if you are heading to the city centre and, plan to stay there. You have the airport shuttle bus that takes you there at a fraction of the cost. Of course, if you want to do a road trip and have plenty of luggage, renting a car is practical. You can also consider Renfe for inter-city trips. That's the Spanish rail service which I have used many times over the years. They are very good, clean, punctual and affordable. You can reserve your tickets online well in advance which is convenient.My partner and I had booked an apartment in the old city and that was the best decision we made. Everything we wanted to do and see was at walking distance. The best tapas bars were right down the lane and even the most talked-about restaurants were a comfortable 15-minutes walk away. The first place that we did visit was the famous and well-stocked, Atarazanas Market.
This is a covered market stocking fruits, vegetables, nuts, spices, meats ( yes, the Iberico too!) and also, fish. But that's not all. This place has a tapas bar (family-run with kids and grand kids involved) inside and they specialize in fish. We reached at 2 pm and everything was over! We later realized that it was a local AND a tourist favourite and we simply had to get there early. So the next day, we landed there at 11:30 am. They have small tables and chairs to sit outside but I recommend standing where the action is so you are noticed and served quickly. We had fried Sardines, seafood paella, Spanish style olive oil stir-fried Gambas and the famous Malaga wine (sweet, yet robust). You can find this wine only in the Malaga region so if you like the taste, pick up a bottle (or two).The next day, we decided to taste the famous Churros at what is considered (by most locals) an institution for Churro making.
Casa Aranda is right in the city centre and it is crowded! Really, really crowded. Inside AND outside. There are people waiting in queues looking expectantly at the ones who are eating, hoping they will get up soon! It's a miracle that we found place to sit. Before you start visualizing about the place, it's simple and non-fussy so don't go expecting a fine-dining place. The servers don't talk too much (they don't have the time, with the crowds) but they are very helpful if you ask them anything. In our case, help figuring out what we could have. After some English, some Spanish and a lot of hand waving to explain drinks (Tea), we finally placed our order and got everything we wanted in 10 minutes! Yes, they are that quick and I was very lucky because I could see them making my churros (I was facing their semi-open kitchen)
So what is a Churro?
It is a fried dish (see picture below) made out of dough that is worked on for quite some time, then elongated, then fried and finally, quickly cut into long pieces.
Next stop was The Alcazaba - a palatial fortress. This particular Alcazaba (Al-kasbah in Arabic meaning Citadel) was built some time around the 11th century and today, is the best preserved Alcazaba in Spain. You can also see the remnants of a Roman theatre right outside it (again, very well preserved). Overall, the architecture and the views from the top are stunning and I highly recommend a trip here.
There can be queues to get in, so plan well. Depending on which month you go, earlier is sometimes better. For eg. Summers in Spain are very hot, so it's best to do all the climbing before 11 am or after 4 pm. Check their website for details.
Malaga has a good collection of family owned restaurants that serve you food that's simple yet heart-warming and also, fine-dining newbies that wow you with their sophisticated plating & unusual flavour combinations. Right opposite the Roman theatre, is a fascinating restaurant called, Garum Casual. Go there in the evening to enjoy fabulous views and to treat your tastebuds to exciting flavours. We had fantastic tapas and amazing Sangrias. 
Walking around this city is highly recommended. You can let the wind play with your hair while you soak in some much needed Vitamin D on the waterfront OR you could go shopping (gorgeous Spanish brands like Zara, Mango, Desigual etc) OR you can visit one of the many museums. Pablo Picasso was born in Malaga and if you are a fan, there is a museum dedicated to him in the old city.
If you are into Organic Vegan food, Siete Semillas is a good option to eat at.
Some members of the staff do understand English and they will translate the day's special for you. I simply pointed to what some of the tables were having and did not regret it. Tip : Eat what the locals are eating because they know best! This place is open only for breakfast and lunch so plan accordingly.
If you are okay with walking a little bit (uphill at times) and want to eat well priced fine-dining food, there is a gem called Aire that you should visit for lunch. We found this place well-priced (at least by Dutch standards).
The sommelier is nice & friendly and the chef is truly talented. Everything that we tasted was outstanding and presented well.
Malaga is creative, fun and extremely vibrant.
The people are friendly and welcoming so you will never feel out-of-place. I can't wait to head back and I hope, some day soon, you will make plans to visit as well!I hope you enjoyed this first article in my series. Please leave back your feedback or leave me a comment if you have any questions.
Gracias!
For your reference:
Alcazaba : Calle Alcazabilla 2, Malaga
Garum Casual : Calle Alcazabilla 1, Malaga
Siete Semillas : Plaza Ariola 1, Malaga ( It is right around the corner from the Atarazanas Market)
Atarazanas Market: Calle Atarazanas 10, Malaga
Aire: Avenida Pries 16, Malaga
Website for Renfe : www.renfe.com
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