Flavours of Crete-I

At Aaji's Thaali, my objective is to encourage you to explore new cities, their cultures and their cuisines (virtually if not in person) and also to taste new delicacies (through recipes that I post every week). Today and tomorrow, we are heading to Crete. 

Dance performance in Fournes

Crete is the largest and also the most populous of the Greek islands in the turquoise Mediterranean Sea. It's capital city Heraklion has the Palace of Knossos which is a must-see. The island as such has beautiful and picturesque towns, cities and villages along with some of the best beaches in the world like Elafonisi & Balos. There are smaller less frequented but equally stunning beaches which are sandy and just perfect for a family or a couple's holiday. Keep in mind that given the size of the island,(two airports), it's best to pre-plan everything you want to do. If you don't want to drive or hire cabs, the state buses are very good. They are well priced, air-conditioned and extremely comfortable.

View of the Botanical Gardens

There's a lot to do on this island. For the adventurous ones, there are plenty of hiking trails like the daunting but stunning, Samaria Gorge. If you are a nature lover, a must-visit is the Botanical Park in Fournes. Primarily, this area was used for Olive Plantations but a fire destroyed the region so the owners decided to develop this region to educate Botany students and enthusiasts about plants, fruits, herbs and flowers. The gardens have so much more now. You will get to see different species of insects, birds, butterflies, bees and even peacocks. 
We went on a Monday and the overall experience was magical. We were greeted with a cup of mountain tea - Dictamnus (Dittany) and then given instructions to navigate through the gardens. We decided to take the shorter route (not exactly that short so make sure you have bottles of water and are wearing good sturdy footwear). We got back to the reception area after an interesting and educative 2.5 hours. As the sun set, the views from the terrace were stunning. We enjoyed sipping glasses of wine and eating traditional Greek food. There were options to suit both the carnivores and the vegetarians and the food was delicious. After dinner, we were delighted to finally sample the famed "RAKI", the traditional Cretan drink. Be warned it is extremely strong so take small sips and wait between sips. I found it stronger than the Ouzo which is yet another traditional Greek drink more popular in Mykonos and Athens. 
After dinner, we were entertained by talented local dancers who performed till 2200 hrs and taught us a few moves after every short act they performed as a group. I can't say I am a good dancer but they were so encouraging and so patient, even I managed to dance a few steps with them.

Old town-Chania

Water-front - Chania

Yet, another fascinating city that you must visit is Chania. It lies along the north coast of the island and has some of the most stunning views and interesting architecture. I highly recommend taking a boat trip from the harbour and also a stroll into the old town. If you are a keen photographer, I would suggest going at around 8 am. The views are magnificent and it's still relatively quiet. You can have your breakfast at one of the big tavernas facing the waterfront after you are done. Chania also has some very quaint, family-run tavernas which are a must-visit if you want to try authentic Greek food that has been cooked over generations. 

If you would like to know more about Chania, please leave me a comment so I can address the same in another post but for now, I am keen on taking you to a family-run establishment that has been in business for decades. 
It's very close to the Chania Bus station which is a 10-minute walk from the old city. The name of the establishment is Iordanis. We almost didn't go here because we wanted to go to another town for sightseeing but my partner who has a sweet tooth was quite insistent we try eating here. So after much deliberation, we landed here. It is a very unassuming place so unless you are looking out for it, you might miss it. If you go during breakfast though, the queues will ensure you don't go elsewhere. Everyone comes here to eat their Bougatsa. 


So what is a Bougatsa?

Goat cheese Bougasta

A bougatsa is a sort of a pie with delicate, thin Phyllo pastry covering a filling. In this particular establishment there are two types served - one with custard & cream and the other with Mizithra (a type of Greek goat cheese produced mainly in Crete). You are probably wondering what the big deal is and it's just a regular pie, right? Wrong. The flaky cover is thin and when it's cracked at your table, its topped with a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar. It's super hot when served so be careful before you take your first bite. The taste is outstanding. Milky and creamy(from the cheese), slight hint of sugar, crispy bits from the Phyllo pastry and the sharp yet warm taste of cinnamon. It's actually addictive and you want to eat more of it because one seems like too less. Yes, even with ALL that cheese, it's very light! This place doesn't serve anything except the bougatsas and tea/coffee. Okay, a glass of water too but that's about it. It's a good thing because they know what they are good at and their patrons know what they are good at, so you know why you are going there. We went an hour before closing time and luckily, there were no crowds. The grandmom (who still cooks) was busy in the kitchen, the daughter gave us suggestions and took orders while the granddaughter served us our food. Fantastic place, kind people and extremely affordable. For your reference, here is the address:


Bougatsa Iordanis: 24 Apokoronou, Chania Town, Crete. 

To visit or to find out more about the Botanical Gardens, please visit http://www.botanical-park.com/

Please note - The dance programme is till 2200 hours and it's dark and quiet when you exit the gardens. So unless you are driving down, a local tour company should be considered to take you there and then pick you up.