Jaisalmer - India

The one thing that travel does teach me is a better understanding of different cultures. When I went to the North Indian state of Rajasthan, I was wowed not just by their landscape and food but also the genuine warmth and affection the locals showered on us!
There is so much to learn from these experiences and I must admit that I feel truly enriched after my travels. My aim at aajisthaali is to get back a little bit of what I see & experience, and share it with you. I know how busy life is and planning travel across the world might not be a possibility for you but that shouldn't stop you from trying out different cuisines in your own kitchen or virtually traveling to an exotic destination with aajisthaali.

Jaisalmer also called The Golden City is situated in the heart of Thar desert and  can be identified by its unique yellow sandstone architecture. We drove down from Jodhpur airport. The journey itself was long but we managed to see the arid landscape this region is famous for and also, beautiful peacocks along the way! We finally reached Jaisalmer at night and I was so mesmerized! The star attraction here is the magnificent Golden City Fort that looms above the city. At night (specially on a full moon night), it looks stunning. Luckily, we were staying at a hotel that offered us great views of the fort and also, of the surrounding city.

We reached in time for dinner and we were impressed with the local cuisine. The Rajasthani food is spicy but some dishes do have sweet undertones and they use ghee very liberally in their cooking. Almost 70 percent people living in the state of Rajasthan are vegetarians. The variety of vegetarian dishes is staggering specially if you decide to ask for an authentic Rajasthani thaali. Starve before you go so that you can finish everything that is served to you. The food is rich and delicious so it's not really that difficult!
For the meat lovers, there is availability of game meat and some non-vegetarian delicacies like laal maas (red meat), which is iconic.
A word of advice - Only attempt eating this particular dish if you can handle spice because this dish is super-spicy and pungent. There are other dishes that are milder so if you are unsure, always ask your hosts for suggestions.
If you have a sweet tooth, this cuisine also has plenty of sweet dishes. And no, they cannot be called dessert (according to our guide) because these sweets are served throughout the day. Which essentially means before, during & after your main meal! The Rajasthani balushahi, churma and ghevar are world famous and extremely delicious.
I am sure you are curious about the food now so, we will be cooking a simple Rajasthani dish early next week but for now, let's step away from all the food and  do some sightseeing.

One of the first places to visit is the Golden City Fort.

Built in the 12th century, this is one of the very few living forts in the world. The yellow sandstone walls look very different during the day and then again at night, they blend into the desert around it. Just very surrealistic to look at, night and day! Inside, is a beautiful Jain temple. Please note: It is good to wear modest clothing when you enter a place of worship in Rajasthan. For women, that means long skirts/pants and arms partially covered (you could drape a shawl around you) and for men, long pants/ 3/4 pants. You need to take out your footwear before you enter a Hindu place of worship and generally, they do not allow photography inside during a procession or puja (religious ceremony). Always ask before you take pictures so that you don't land up offending the priests or devotees.

There are numerous merchant havelis (large houses/ mansions) built by rich merchants inside. Several families and craftsmen still live in the havelis which have multiple rooms and windows. We entered one to go see a local craftsman and I must say, if it weren't for our chauffeur, we would never have been able to find the exit! There are also numerous eateries inside so you can grab a bite if you get hungry.

I found Patwon ki Haveli the most interesting. It isn't a single haveli but 5 smaller havelis grouped in one haveli. Most were built in the earlier part of the 19th century. Patwon ki Haveli is now a museum that exhibits its wall paintings, jharokas (intricately carved balconies - look at the picture below), its gateways and archways.

For a bit of solitude, head to Gadisar Lake in the morning when it's not crowded. The lake itself is full of catfish. This lake used to be the main source of water for Jaisalmer a long time ago. There is a small temple in the complex but other than that, you don't have much to do here. The views of course, are spectacular.

If you like the desert, head there late afternoons/early evenings with a guide or tour company. There are camel safaris here as well. I would not recommend traveling alone to this place because it's isolated. We got back just as the sun was setting and not only did the temperatures plummet but it got pitch dark within minutes and there wasn't a soul around.
However, the views and experience itself, was magical. We felt like we were mere specks in the vast desert.

Some tips/ guidelines to follow when traveling in Jaisalmer:
1. It's always a good idea to dress conservatively.
2. The roads are isolated most times so always make sure you have your phone on you and it's charged.
3. Don't venture around alone in areas you don't know.
4. Always drink bottled water and avoid salads.
5. Try and get back to your hotel by sunset or just after it.
6. Trust a known guide/company to show you around in a car- specially in the desert. Do not venture here on your own.
7. Ask about the ingredients before you sample foods to avoid allergic reactions.
8. There are separate rates for foreigners and locals when you enter the fort. If you want to do photography, they do charge extra.
9. Apply mosquito repellent creams to avoid bites.
10. Keep your arms and legs covered to avoid sunburns and insect bites. Always wear a hat.

On your way to or from Jodhpur, you can stop over at Pokhran for some sightseeing. I will be covering Pokhran in the coming few weeks.

I would recommend a 2-night stay in Jaisalmer if you reach early afternoon/evening.
For comments/questions, please use the comment box or send me an email at aajisthaali@gmail.com