Hvar & Split - Croatia

Croatia (Republic of Croatia) is located on the Adriatic Sea. It shares a maritime border with Italy and its neighbors are Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro. Croatia's capital is Zagreb. Zagreb is known for its Austro-Hungarian architecture. However, Zagreb isn't the only city in Croatia that attracts tourists. The picturesque and beautiful Dubrovnik, Split, Pula, Korcula etc. are just as popular. If you plan a visit to Croatia, you need to take off for a week and a half to cover most of these cities and towns. You also need to keep some time (preferably 3 days) to visit at least two of the Croatian islands, if not all.
In this article, we are exploring two places. The island of Hvar and Split city.

If you plan to fly, the  fastest way to reach the scenic island of Hvar is via Split. When you land at Split airport, you don't need to hire a car or take a taxi. There are enough air-conditioned buses to take you to Split's harbour. The price is a nominal 5 euros per person (The currency in Croatia is kuna but for the bus trip into Split, they accept euros) and you can buy tickets from the bus driver. The drivers speak English so just ask them if they are heading towards Split Harbour and then get on board.  They have good bus frequencies leaving from the airport and they are timed keeping in mind the incoming flights so you don't need to run to catch the bus.

Our holiday started as soon as we reached the Split Harbour. Look at the picture below and you'll understand why!

 I was impressed by how tourist-friendly this country is. You do not need to look around or ask anyone anything. There are enough boards to guide you and enough information desks around to tell you which boat goes where. We had pre-booked our tickets with Jadrolinija. The boat itself is huge with a small canteen. The seats are a little bit like business class seats in a plane so the journey is very comfortable. In spring, the sea was  rather calm and we didn't feel any turbulence. After arriving in Hvar after an hour and a half, we were greeted by our resort representative. He took our bags with him on a bus while we chose to walk towards the resort.

Why did we choose a resort? Simply because it was my partner's birthday and we wanted to be pampered, use the spa services etc. There are enough well-priced apartments in the old city and you can definitely choose to go with that option if you wish. The supermarkets are well-stocked with fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood so you can easily whip up meals in your apartment. Hvar itself is built on several levels and the roads are cobbled so I would recommend wearing sturdy shoes before you venture up. And, no, it's in no way dangerous because they have steps not slopes so you can't slip. Just make sure you are traveling light so you don't have to drag heavy suitcases all the way up when you want to reach your apartment.

In Croatia, the weather in spring is pleasant with plenty of sun. We dined outdoors most nights and enjoyed it. If you like Italian food, you will love the Croatian fare. It's quite similar yet very different. Seafood and meat feature a lot in menus but the vegetarians do not have to worry. I have put down a couple of good options for you too.  Most good restaurants, cafes and bars are on the slopes in and around the market square and I would recommend using your phone GPS to find the place you want.  The one specialty that you must taste in Hvar is their  fish stew. The Grandmother's Octopus Stew made by Black Pepper was a real knockout! In fact, everything we tried ( vegetarian and non-vegetarian) was delicious. In this restaurant the main ingredient remains the star on the plate. They use minimal additives to dress up or complicate the dish. The plating is again fuss-free and simple.

This restaurant can get very crowded in summer so go early or reserve. The chef is young and extremely talented. The servers are friendly and help you pick the right food.
There is this little gem way up on the slope that serves great desserts and sweet treats. Nonica serves traditional sweets made using old recipes and you really need to reach early because by early afternoon, most of the shelves are empty.
If you like the outdoors and socializing with fellow travelers, Lola Street Food and Bar is your best bet. Great drinks, delicious starters and fantastic staff. It's always crowded here and that only adds to its appeal.
If you are vegan but your partner isn't, the Fig Cafe Bar is a good option. They cater to vegans and non-vegans and the food is fresh, delicious and most importantly, the prices don't kill your hunger:)
We also ate quite a lot at the resort simply because the views were unbeatable!

Staring at the Adriatic Sea is tempting but if you take a boat trip to the Blue Caves, you will be more than thrilled. It can get very crowded as the day progresses so try and go early.

The harbour itself is quite scenic as well so spend some time walking around.
In the town square, visit the St. Stephen's Cathedral and then take a  walk around. On some days, they have local markets set up there and you can buy local produce.
The Pakleni Islands are not too far from Hvar and you can go with a local company or water taxi. In summer, it's very crowded. In spring it's nice and quiet. There is a decent collection of bars and restaurants there so you can grab a bite/snack.

Want to burn some calories? Walk up to the Tvrdava Fortica. This medieval castle looms above the picturesque town and the views on the way, and even once you reach on top are spectacular. Steep at some points and an easy climb at some, make sure you carry water with you if you are heading there in the afternoon or in the summer. If you have additional time in Hvar, you can choose to head to the island of Korcula. It is rather big so leave early so that you can come back at a decent time.

We stayed in Hvar for 3 nights and managed to pack in a lot of sightseeing, relaxation and adventure. On our way back, we stopped over at Split. We reached in the afternoon and the apartment that we had rented was right within the palace walls so it was an easy walk from the harbour.

Split is a stunner! The second largest city in Croatia, this ancient city has the majestic Diocletian's Palace. This city's history is interesting and I would highly recommend going on a walking tour of this city with a knowledgeable guide. We walked through areas we wouldn't normally think of exploring.

Locals dancing to traditional music in the old city

I feel that when you are in a city with so much history, it's always nice to get a local's perspective.

The old city and its narrow lanes have a beauty that's hard to put into words.
Make sure you see the Cathedral of Saint Domnius and its bell tower. The bell tower is narrow and I wouldn't recommend climbing it if you are afraid of heights.

Beautiful streets in Split

If you like hiking and climbing, head towards Marjan Park. It's about 15 minutes walk from the centre of Split to the entrance. Once here, you need to hike up further. The roads are steep and there are plenty of steps. It can get windy so a wind jacket will be useful if you are heading here in spring. The stunning views and the fresh air is rewarding after the long walk.

I would recommend walking alongside the Riva Harbour in the evenings. It's got lovely cafes and restaurants if you want to grab a bite. For those who prefer just sitting and looking at the sea, you have benches.

If you are a foodie, you will be spoilt for choice. They have enough cuisines there to keep even the fussy ones happy. We chose to go to a Mexican place called To Je Tako.

As always, we ordered more than we should have. The food was delicious but we were so stuffed after two appetizers and two mains, we chose to skip dinner that night and had ice creams from a local ice cream store. We also dined at Konoba Nevera and the seafood preparations were good. The scampi was fresh and the fish was made well.

What can you buy in Croatia?
They are known for their corals and you will find several shops selling you earrings, necklaces etc. If you want to buy, make sure you do so from a registered shop. Split has many such jewelers as does Hvar. Another thing that you can buy is lavender oils and soaps given that lavender it's grown around this region.

For your reference,
1 eur = 7. 43 Croatian Kuna (as per today's records)
Most places accept credit cards so we didn't exchange too much. However, there are enough places in Hvar and Split that exchange your currency if you want to avoid using your credit card.

Please note : While the driver accepts Euros when you are getting into Split town,  they will not accept Euros when you are going back to the airport. So, you need to have Kuna on you for your ticket. The driver does not sell you tickets on the return journey. So, it's advisable to reach the bus depot early and get your ticket because there are always queues.

If you have comments/questions, please leave me a note in the comments section or send me an email at aajisthaali@gmail.com