Rhodes - Greece

Kalimera!
I must have been Greek in my last birth. I LOVE the food, the people, the weather and culture :)  Unfortunately, I don't speak the language but maybe I will learn someday (never say never)!

This time around, I am taking you to the Dodecanese island of Rhodes/ Rodos. This place was on my wish-list for many years and I'm glad that I finally got a chance to visit. This island, along with Symi and Kos, are the closest to mainland Turkey and you can actually see Turkey from some areas in Rhodes.

Please do not go to Rhodes if you have less than 5 days because you will not manage to see everything this island has to offer. The beaches are spectacular so you need an additional day just for that. We went for 7 nights and I got all of one day to soak in the sun and enjoy the sea.

The arrival section of the airport is currently being renovated but everything is functional. There are buses available (right outside arrivals) that take you to Rhodes old town and to other places.
We decided to stay in Faliraki.  If you want to stay in Faliraki, you need to change buses at Rhodes old town and take another bus heading toward Faliraki.
Our Greek hostess organized a pick-up for us and it took us around 20 minutes to get to Faliraki Beach. We generally like to split our holidays every year. At some places, we prefer apartments, sometimes resorts and sometimes, we like to delve into the local life and live like them. Given how much I love Greek culture, a B&B seemed like the most  attractive option so we chose Anelia Boutique Studio & Apartments. It is less than 100 meters away from Faliraki Beach.
Every morning,  we were served delicious Greek delicacies (and regular breakfast items like omelettes etc) for breakfast (included in the room cost). In fact there was so much food that on most days we had to skip lunch because our bellies had no space whatsoever for any more food! Anna (our hostess) and team also make dinner by request.

Chicken & Okra, specially made for me :)

Lemon Peel sweet pickle. 

Dessert at breakfast!

Breakfast at Anelia's. 

The Rhodes version of Bougatsa. Follow the link to read about this delicacy.

Faliraki as such is a quiet area during the day and picks up pace as the day progresses. It's a party hub when the sun sets. There are small and big tavernas on the beach that suit all tastes and budgets. I loved going for swims in the morning and for quiet walks on the beach at dusk. If you want to go to Rhodes old town or even Symi, the harbour is barely a 10- minute walk away. You also have various small hotels and apartments around the beach. There is something to suit every budget in Rhodes, so look around for deals before you go.

Faliraki Beach with the harbour on the right

It depends  on what you want to do on your holiday. If you want to pack in a lot of sightseeing, it's advisable to rent a car for a few days so that you don't have to depend on the bus. You need to have a European driving permit to drive on this island (or an international driving permit). If you are going in summer and are from North Europe, I would strongly recommend an air-conditioned car because the temperatures in the afternoon get high. Make sure you drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.

Now on to some sightseeing...
You will need two days in Rhodes old town because there are two main museums that you should go see and also, you need to walk around this city. If you want a more relaxed pace, plan for 3 days here.
There is a combined pass available which is a good buy and allows you entry to a couple of places. It is sold at the ticket counter of the Palace of the Grand Masters. The Palace of the Grand Masters itself is a half-day activity and if you want to go walk around the walls, there is a separate ticket that you can buy.

The Palace of the Grand Masters is impressive and majestic. Its high walls and mosaic floors take you back in time and if you are into history, read up a little bit before you go because it will come handy as you walk around.

Medusa Mosaic

This place and the Archaeological Museum (again, a MUST-VISIT but do this on day 2) have a fantastic collection. Most of it is in really good condition and it's hard to believe how old some of the stuff is! Some vases were still intact (except a few cracks) and they go back several centuries! The Palace of the Grand Masters and a little bit of the old city can be done in one day.

Old city

The next day can be used up to see the remaining city including the Mandraki harbour & its iconic windmills and The Archaeological Museum.

Mandraki Harbour

 There is a third museum (exhibiting tapestry and furnishings) covered in the ticket but I personally found the collection there limited with no information or labeling.The fourth place covered is Our Lady of the Castle cathedral. It has limited hours so I would recommend going here before you head to the other bigger places.

Our Lady of the Castle Cathedral

The views from the Palace are beautiful and the old town itself has a charm that can't be described. You need to be there and experience this magical place.

 There are plenty of places to eat at in the old town and there are several cuisines offered. I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and enjoy the food the locals eat. It's all fresh and delicious. We tried two places and came out impressed.
The first one, Archodiko Dimitri ( first two pictures below) was on Sokratous Street in the old Town and the second place, To Marouli was a little away from the castle (the remaining pictures below). To Marouli is a vegan and vegetarian taverna while the first one gives you meat and seafood options.
Here are some pictures of what we tried at these places.

Zucchini Pattice

A Greek Vegetarian Platter

Dip at To Maorouli

Stuffed Vine leaves at To Maorouli

Aubergine dish at To Maorouli

For a little bit of archaeology and culture, I would recommend a visit to Lindos.

Lindos is quite some distance away from Rhodes old town (if you are based there) and not as far from  Faliraki. Of course, you can also just stay in Lindos if you want. Lindos reminded me of Mykonos. It could be the all-white and blue accents, maybe. Or the tiny local artisan shops along the old lanes... Overall though, this place has lots of charm oozing out of it and many like to spend an entire day absorbing its flavours. There are plenty of tavernas here that offer good fare. The beach here is also very famous.

If you are not based here, a good idea overall is to start off early so you get here by about 10 am. If you are driving, you get to park your car on the top and then walk down to the village. It's about 10 minutes of downhill walking so not too stressful. Just watch out for the buses and cars and stick to the side of the street as you walk down.
To head to the Acropolis, you need to climb up.

 Most of these steps are through the village so it doesn't seem like much because you get distracted with what they are offering (great cotton & linen clothing) and don't realize how much you are walking :D Jokes apart, there are some steep turns and curves and I urge you to wear shoes with good grip because I saw many people struggling because of improper footwear.
The acropolis itself is tall and majestic. It is in remarkably good condition (as you can see in my photo above). Rhodes is prone to earthquakes so there has been some damage to the structures but overall, you will not be disappointed. The views from the top, specially over St Paul's Bay are spectacular as you can see in my picture below.

St Paul's Bay

You will possibly take about an hour up at the Acropolis and then yet another hour to walk down. Stop by at a local taverna for a drink or snack before you carry on walking. Don't forget, the car is on top so you do need the energy to climb up! Again, it's not a lot if you are moderately healthy. You can choose to take a cab if you find it difficult. Be sure to work out a price before.

From here, you can drive further south to the famous Prasonisi Beach. This is where the Mediterranean Sea and the Aegean Sea converge. This beach is HUGE. And you can actually see where the seas meet as well.

The point where the two seas meet

On the day that we were there, the Mediterranean Sea was boisterous and the Aegean was calm (apparently it's generally the opposite). Overall though, it was delightful to stand there and take in the expanse and soak in the views. The drive itself from Lindos was long but eventful as we passed fields and olive plantations. On some stretches we had sea views but mostly, it was an internal road and it gave us a glimpse into the countryside.

At night, we tried out this taverna on Faliraki beach called Maria's. Maria's is locally known for her seafood and we were not disappointed. Her food is homely and the dishes are well-priced. What makes this place special is how friendly the hostess and her family is. We reached barely an hour before closing time. Yet, they were warm and welcoming. Maria chatted with us for a few minutes and assured us we were very welcome to stay and eat more if we wanted.  The one dish that you must eat when in Rhodes is the Symi Shrimp that's fried. Basically, this variety is small and you eat it whole.  It's only available here and in Symi. It's delicious! Maria's food was fresh and we enjoyed our time and the food here.

Symi Shrimp at Maria's

Beans at Maria's

Another good place to eat at in Faliraki is Manolis Taverna. They have people coming from all over the island and most are repeat customers. The food is fantastic. We dined there on two nights and came out smiling.

Galaktoboureko - a dessert

Deconstructed Dakos salad. Follow link to get recipe for Cretan dakos

Dips with special bread

Grilled Haloumi Cheese with salad

Potato Salad

If you happen to be in love with our galaxy and would like an interaction,  head to the Astronomy Cafe in Faliraki.

 Perched up on a hill, this cafe has a space theme and you are guided into spotting stars and also, you get to look at the moon and its craters. I was over the moon ( Hah! :D) as I had never seen the moon so up, close and personal!
If you have never seen or experienced this and have never been near a telescope, it's fun and exciting. Of course, if you are an avid watcher, this isn't probably the place for you. The guided tour starts once the sun sets so most people choose to sit outdoors with their drinks & snacks and take in the views till then.

Themed snacks. Don't miss the Moon and Saturn design:)

The owner told me that on full moon nights and during summer solstice, they host parties here as well. Please note- If you intend walking up here, it's quite a steep and long walk so go slowly. Also, you get done very late and there are no lights on the roads so plan on driving here or take a cab while heading back to your hotel/apartment. Overall, it is enjoyable, very well-priced and a really good initiative to introduce people to the galaxy.

If you like archaeology, I would recommend a drive to the ancient Kamiros ruins.

 Kamiros was one of the 3-city states founded by the Dorians in the early first millennium BC. In 411 BC, the cities merged into a single state and founded a new capital on the site of what is now the town of Rhodes. However, life here in the old city continued. Excavations were carried out in the 19th century and also during the Italian occupation.
The finds were then transported to the British Museum, the Louvre and other European museums. the finds from Italian excavations are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum in Rhodes. This city was built using the Hellenistic urban planning principle and it existed in harmony with the natural landscape around. The city got severely damaged after an earthquake in 227 BC. It was re-built but was subsequently damaged by a second big earthquake. The authorities have done a stellar job and every area is clearly defined and explained. You will need about an hour and a half to walk around. I was particularly impressed with the advanced water management system that existed back then. They managed to transport water from the other end of the island to here with piping. We saw the same pipes in the museum. They looked like they were manufactured a decade back!

From here, you can drive down to Monolithos Castle.
Do keep in mind that the roads are steep & narrow at several points. So, if you tend to get nervous around narrow roads and heights, avoid going here. Also, at some points, we lost network. Once you reach here, you need to climb up.

Castle

Views

Church at top

Steps heading down. Scary, isn't it?

The road is uneven and there are no defined steps, just rocks at some points. Good footwear is important as is a slow pace. There are loose pebbles and it can get slippery if you rush. This is a castle that was built by the Knights of St John. It never got conquered and when you reach here you will know why ( the pictures give you clues)! There is a tiny church on site too. The views are fantastic but given the distance, the scary roads and the climb up, I am not sure I would go here again.
If you do go here, then on the way back you should stop by at the wineries. We stopped at one and picked up good bottles of wine and olive oil.

If you want to skip the Castle and would still like to enjoy some good views,  head to the Tsambika Monastry instead.

Perched on a hill, it has around 300 steps. Maybe a few more or less. The good news is that these steps are not tiny, narrow or intimidating. They are long and wide so you can stop and rest if you get tired. The view just keeps getting better and better with every step you take, so that's good enough motivation to keep going up. The monastry as such is small but very tranquil. The climb down is a little tricky if you have issues with heights but other than that, not too challenging given that the steps are well designed and defined.

The Tsambika Beach is a good place to unwind after a trek.

 The water is calm and by afternoon, it's just the perfect temperature.

If you would rather skip the beach and keep that as an all-day activity, head to the 7 springs. This is a nature reserve that felt like utopia (to me)...

Peacocks walk around freely in the forest and birds do not seem intimidated by humans. The highlight here is the narrow passage and the majestic water fall.

So what is this passage? It's essentially a connection from one side of the reserve to the other. Why is it special? It's dark, long and has spring water and you get to walk through it...a little bit of adventure!
It's not scary once you know what to expect. Some people behind me were hassled and if you aren't okay with confined spaces, skip this route and walk through the forest to reach the waterfall. I personally found it great fun. The ceiling drops at some sections & you need to bend and walk (if you are tall), but it's not scary. My recommendation would be to take along a flashlight. This way you know where you are going. The water starts at ankle length and eventually comes to your calves. Once you get out, you are back in a stream. The air is fresh and all the greenery around refreshes your mind and body.

The waterfall itself can be accessed by heading down some steep rocks. Like I said, do whatever makes you comfortable without stretching your physical limits.

If you have some energy left, you can go to Anthony Quinn Bay. The film, Guns of Navarone was filmed in Rhodes and Anthony Quinn fell in love with the island and bought a plot of land here. The bay itself is stunning. The beach is rocky but the water is calm and clear. Perfect for day-dreaming, reading or sunbathing (if you don't fancy a swim) :)

Anthony Quinn Bay

If you are heading to Rhodes after June,  you can visit the Butterfly Valley. Read before you go. I could not go because it isn't open in May.

Overall, Rhodes was full of good surprises and the weather did not play spoil-sport. The people  were friendly, warm, helpful and courteous. I actually had a fantastic time and really hope you will enjoy your visit to this gorgeous island as well.

For any questions, do not hesitate to mail me at aajisthaali@gmail.com or use the comment box below.

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Thank you!



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