Freiburg & Vitra Campus - Germany

Freiburg im Breisgau and Weil am Rhein (where the Vitra Campus is located) both lie in the Black Forest region of Germany. Black Forest has France on one side and Switzerland on the other. If you go to Weil am Rhein and head to the Vitra Museum, you can actually see parts of both France and Switzerland from some places.

Needless to say, the natural beauty in this region is breathtaking. There were times when I wanted to just stay right there - taking deep breaths and letting my mind & body inhale the fresh forest scents. It can get bitterly cold in this part of Germany and I have lived through double-digit negative temperatures (when I was living in the vicinity) but there is a special kind of beauty in that too. And when spring does come, it feels like re-birth. In a way, it is for many.

We drove down from Stuttgart (I will cover that in a separate post) and as the sun set, the forest got more and more bewitching. The beautiful village houses with their warm lights began to tantalize tired passengers to stop for the night. We had a hotel reservation so we drove on and reached the beautiful town of Freiburg im Breisgau. We reached at almost 10 pm and the whole town was asleep. Luckily, our hotel (a Hilton property) had a 24-hour cafe so we could get a warm meal before we retired for the night.

Muenster

Known as the university town in Germany, Freiburg im  Breisgau is also well known for its Muenster (Grand Cathedral with Gothic tower).

In fact, the old city is a little bit of a wonderland and if you are a first-time tourist to this place, I would recommend you spend at least two nights here so that you can explore around this city and the surrounding region. If you are driving down, stay a little away from the city centre (like we did).The metro service here is very good and well-priced. There are ticket machines inside the metros (if not at the stops) so you can buy your ticket once you board. If you are heading here in summer, be sure to look for good deals at B&Bs or hotels because everything automatically gets more expensive. If you were to ask me for a good time to visit, I would choose spring or autumn.

Don't forget to look at the Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Market building) as you walk  around the old town.

Historische Kaufhaus

 If  you enjoy trekking, head to the Schlossberg for some fab views. There is also a restaurant where you can rest. If you are not athletic enough, take the cable car up. I found many people struggling at the half way mark and it's never pleasant when you get that tired and can't enjoy a place.
 If you are in Freiburg when there is a farmers' market in the town square, do pick up some berries. They taste like nectar.

Once you are done soaking up the natural beauty (trust me, it's never going to be enough), head over to Weil am Rhein to the Vitra Design Museum Campus  for a crash course on how design affects our life and how innovative design transforms living and work spaces. We didn't really plan for a guided tour but were lucky enough to get one by the very informative Kristen (or Kirsten) I apologize if I have gotten her name wrong!
She is  very knowledgeable when it comes to her work and is quick to answer questions. She took us around the campus showcasing the main buildings designed by titans of the design world. Also, she took us to areas which are otherwise inaccessible to regular visitors. So, try and get a tour if you can as it will be so much more educational than just looking at buildings.

Let's start at the Vitra Schaudepot.

 Built by architecture firm, Herzog & de Meuron, this building is actually a museum that showcases the history of Furniture Design. The brick work in the facade is very unique. Every brick looks like it is broken. See the pictures below

This building houses almost 7000 pieces of furniture, more than 1000 lighting objects as well as the archives of stalwarts like Charles & Ray Eames and Alexander Girard.

It is quite a fascinating place if you are a designer or an enthusiast and even if you are neither, it's a great way to educate yourself about designs that have been iconic.

The one big surprise for me was the Beaver chair by Frank Gehry. I have grown up knowing Gehry as an architect and not as a furniture designer so this was educational (you learn something new everyday!).
We were lucky enough to also get to see the Living in the Box Design in Comic & Cartoon. It was actually being inaugurated on that evening so they kindly let us have a preview :)

To help you along, there is a digital catalog that provides you with detailed information about the objects exhibited in the main hall. The history behind different pieces is explained through images and text. You can choose to connect through your own phone or borrow a tablet from the reception.
The lower level is a completely different world. Here, you will find Vitra Schaudepot Lab which provides information about materials and processes (manufacturing) used to create furniture. The lab has an extensive collection of materials, semi-finished products, construction and design examples, documents and films that help you visualize how a particular piece is conceptualized and then actually manufactured (from prototype to series production). You will be fascinated with the material that is on display and also its application. Materials like carbon fibre, wood, metal and plastic are used in different applications. You get an insight into the development process and how complex it is to actually take a design towards completion and then onto production. A chair isn't just a chair anymore as you understand the sweat and hard work that goes into making it. You can feel the materials used (textures) and learn about their qualities. Basically, you suddenly get to be a part of the process. The one place that I found really interesting was the Eames' office.

I am a huge fan of their work. So I was more than delighted to see a recreated office space from their archives here in The Vitra Schaudepot.

After you are done visiting this building,  grab a bite at one of the delis around the campus. We chose to eat at the one right next to the Schaudepot. The food was fantastic. They have plenty of options to suit everyone so you won't go hungry. I enjoyed their pasta salad and sandwich. Both were freshly made and perfectly seasoned.

With full bellies and hungry minds, we walked towards the exposition building. No prizes for guessing who has designed this one :) Can't guess? Frank Gehry! In fact,  you will see three other buildings designed by him within the campus.
This one is currently housing an exhibition showcasing the works of the eminent Indian architect, B.V. Doshi.

Architect Doshi trained under and then worked with the illustrious Mr. Le Corbusier in Paris before he moved to India to start his own studio. He has achieved a lot (interesting projects, awards, accolades) in the years since he started and even today, he is active and focused on community building projects. There are several architectural projects that have been showcased here and also some stunning paintings like this one below.

I found one project particularly interesting. This is something he conceptualized with the late painter, M.F. Hussain. It's called Amdavad ni Guha (cave of Ahmedabad).

 It was built as an exposition space to house artist Hussain's work keeping in mind the harsh, dry weather conditions in Ahmedabad.

A short walk away from here and you get to see Frank Gehry's  first realized project in Europe. Here is a picture -

Just opposite this is a stunning yet minimalist building - a conference pavilion by Japanese architect, Tadao Ando.

 He wanted to have a building that was in harmony with nature and he has used materials that reflect his philosophy. Also, he wanted the building to be at the mercy of nature and not the other way around so you will find the trees at a level higher or the same level when you are in the building. Just very fascinating to see this building in person and to understand the designer's thought process. Again, this was thanks to our wonderful guide.

Another interesting building that I liked was again by a Japanese firm, Sanaa. This is the factory building (access only if you have a guided tour). The exterior is like a ripple. See below. It almost blends into the sky.

Minimalist yet extraordinary.

I felt a bit like I was  walking on a set of X-files when I walked towards the Dome. Designed by architect Richard Buckminster Fuller, this space is used to host events. The interior is quite beautiful too. Have a look at the pictures.

One of the main reasons I had chosen to visit this Campus was to see the legendary Zaha Hadid's Fire Station. I have been a huge fan of her work for many years now and this place did not disappoint.

She designed this building at the very start of her illustrious career and luckily, she was given the opportunity to creatively take forward her ambitious venture without interruptions from the client (a dream for any creative!) The reason this project was initiated was because there was a huge fire in the campus and by the time the nearest fire brigade could send trucks (from Switzerland), the place was damaged. The owners then decided to have something inside the campus to address any future needs. Today, this place is used for expositions, conferences and parties. The ground floor is very unusual in shape and the dressing room walls are at a slant when you look at them. The first floor is again, beautifully designed.

Yet another installation that I enjoyed was the Vitra Slide Tower by installation artist and sculptor Carsten Hoeller. It's actually a watch point but with a twist - a slide thrown in to add some play element.

I could go on and on about this campus but this is just a preview for you. The best way to reach this place is by car but there are also buses. You can find more information on their website
www.vitra.com/visit
The only real tip I have is to get there when the campus opens so that you have till closing hours to explore. It is HUGE and there is plenty to see.
Also, wear comfortable shoes and drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.
I hope you enjoyed this article.
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For now, Danke Schoen und Auf wiedersehen!



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