Madeira

Known for its lush greenery, it's dizziness-inducing steep slopes and it's delicious wine, Madeira is quite an enigma. This island along with Azores are the autonomous regions of Portugal. Situated in north Atlantic Ocean, Madeira is approximately 400 kms north of Tenerife (which is a part of the Canary Islands).

My first interaction with the name Madeira was when I was happened to see a bottle of wine at home that some relative had brought back as a gift. I was about 8-10 years old and I remember looking at the label fascinated. I had an uncle who was quite the traveler and adventure seeker. He was also my encyclopedia when it came to food and travel. He quickly told me about a cake that was also named after the same island. My young mind registered all this information and forgot about it till this year when my partner suggested we go on an adventurous holiday.
My partner loves adventures, while I love culinary tours. He tempted me with the food options I could explore and I willingly agreed (he knows my weakness :D)

I had read about how challenging it is to land at Madeira airport. So naturally, I was in two minds about taking a window seat. After being assured (by my partner) that I could change seats later in the journey, I sat down admiring the Dutch landscape as we took off. I generally love to listen to music and look at the clouds but this time, I was a bit exhausted and fell asleep. Halfway through my talk show where I was hosting George Clooney and the cast of Ocean's 13 (I have the strangest dreams!:D), I woke up with a start and looked out...

We were approaching the island (excuse the excessive light but I didn't want to edit the image and dilute the natural beauty of this picture)! I looked fascinated as the pilot  competently guided the plane towards the runway. They aren't joking when they say this is one of the toughest airports to land in. The runway is small and it is at the edge of the cliff (as you can see) but the views... absolutely spectacular!! I'm glad I didn't let my partner take the window seat. In fact, the next time I go, I'm not even going to offer him the window seat :D

The airport building is modern, well-kempt and extremely well-organized. As you come close to the end of this article, you will understand why I wrote this.

To get to Funchal (capital city), there are buses that leave from outside (the airport). You can take a return ticket (we were there for a week and it was valid) as it works out cheaper. The bus stops at various points on the way so if you are uncomfortable paying too much for a cab and do not wish to drive (the roads are very steep and narrow), the bus is a really good (air-conditioned), comfortable and well-priced option.

Beautiful streets in Funchal

We had rented an apartment in old town Funchal and it was the best decision we made. It gave us the flexibility to get supplies from the supermarket and fix meals when we were too tired to step out. There are several options to eat at (from street vendors,  market stalls to high-end restaurants near the harbour). We found the prices very affordable (by Dutch standards).  You can expect to spend around 115 euros a day (2 people) for breakfast, lunch and dinner with 2 drinks thrown in per meal at a good restaurant. It depends on what you order, of course. But be careful while ordering  because the quantity per plate is quite a lot so it's best to just get one dish and share it before you decide to order any more.

First, let's start with some relevant information/tips -

1. If you do not intend driving, look at hiring a local tour company to show you around the island.
2. The weather can change unexpectedly as they have cross winds (more of this at the end of the article). Carry a wind/rain jacket and a warm muffler and cap.
3. You can literally live off fruits on this island. I saw a mind-boggling variety of passion fruits in the market!
4. If you are prone to motion-sickness, please take your medication along or sit in the front, next to the driver. I can't say it helps a lot but it's a lot better than taking a seat behind. The roads are steep and every few minutes, you are climbing or descending. Even the ones that aren't normally prone to motion sickness needed to step out for some fresh air.
5. There are mosquitoes here and they do bite! (as I discovered one night when I threw open the windows to get in some fresh air). So carry an anti-mosquito spray or cream. I didn't find them around during the day but at night, they were active and hungry!
6. If you intend renting a car, go with a reputed car company and choose an able car that can take steep slopes. Don't think of saving money here. It's one area that you want to go with the best of the best. Most roads are narrow and winding (sometimes with no barriers on the side). If you are nervous, it's just best not to rent a car and drive.

Now that we have covered some important points, let's get on with what you can do during your time there.
Definitely do a cooking workshop if you are a foodie. After some research, we found 3 different groups working out of Funchal. We decided to go with Madeira Cook Experience run by Liliana and Luisa.

 It was a half-day workshop (more like till 4:30 pm) of understanding food that locals eat and ways to cook it. We were also taken around the Mercado dos Lavradores and shown the varieties of fruit and vegetables available. Look at some of the pictures.

This fisherman's knife is 3 generations old!

Scabbard

The prices inside the market for some produce are expensive and you will find better deals at a supermarket BUT the first floor has very good supplies and really good quality (I have never tasted such sweet passion fruit before).

Also, do not miss the sugarcane juice at the inner end on the first floor. It's made fresh for you.

This gentleman is making sugarcane juice for us

 If you are diabetic or a border line diabetic, DO NOT DRINK this but for the rest, try it if you have never tried this before. We were so addicted, we went on all days :P

Coming back to the workshop, we were encouraged to join the chef and attempt some of the specialties. Here are some pictures from the workshop.

Dessert using passion fruit topping 

Poncha - Read about this local drink below

Ceviche seems to be very popular in Madeira

Overall, it was a lot of fun and the women were helpful & willing to part with a lot of information about local lifestyle and food habits. We also got to make and taste a special dessert made using passion fruit (the picture above).
Please note -They hold this workshop only on Wednesdays and on other days, it is only for bigger groups and by reservation. They do cater to different diets but it's best to communicate the same when you send them an email to reserve a spot (the menu changes every week based on the diets they are addressing). Their details are on their Facebook page.

Now coming to the sightseeing bit, you have so much to do. You can go hiking, on levada walks, whale watching or just drive all around the island on a guided tour. We did a combination of all and let's just say, it was quite an adventure!
I trusted Madeira Island Tours with two tours. The first one was over 8 hours and my partner and I were the only ones that day so we got very personalized service.
We were collected from outside our apartment and taken to Sao Vicente Caves first.
I am wary about entering caves . But this cave wasn't intimidating or scary. Or for that matter, too deep.

Experimental testing of wine storage in water

Presentation of volcanic eruption and its effects

It was actually very enjoyable and we had a guide along who explained the history behind the formation of the cave. The authorities have done a great job of putting together a presentation about how volcanic activity changes the landscape of a place (special effects etc).
After some informative sessions, we stopped briefly at the Sao Vicente Village (you can skip this as there isn't a lot to do or see here).

 Our next stop was Ponte Delgada and then the Cabanas Viewpoint. Okay, NOW is where the roads start getting steep, narrow and as you start ascending, you can feel the nausea getting triggered. My advice is to shut off the AC (it's cool anyway), roll down the windows and breathe in the fresh air.  There is really no other way to go up unless you intend walking...The views just keep getting better and better so don't skip this. Look at some of the pictures.

View from Beira da Quinta

The weather in Madeira is ever changing. Sometimes, you will have clear skies and sometimes, the clouds descend which just means that you cannot ascend because visibility is low.
Pico do Arieiro is one of those places. If you are lucky, you will be able to get up here. It stands at a height of 1818 meters and is the island's third highest peak. On a clear day you can see the island of Porto Santo at a distance. But the place itself and the views are just unbelievable. The temperatures plummeted as we reached up. From 26 degrees to 7! It was windy and cold but the views...just sheer bliss! You can walk around and admire the views. Here is a picture to whet your appetite -

A walk in the clouds

From here, we went to see Santana (no not the group!) but a village known for it's quaint houses.

After a quick walk around, we went to Ribeiro Frio. Known for it's trout farms and also its levada (water channels) walks, we decided to step out ( After all that driving, it was much needed and appreciated). The air was fresh and cool.

Water channel/Levada

Most people choose this particular walk because it is easy and flat compared to some other levada walks in the forest.

You can choose to walk towards the Balcoes. This is great for elementary -level walkers and not in the least bit tiring or stressful. Needless to say, good footwear with sturdy grip is a must. We were dropped back at our apartment by 6 pm.

The next day, we decided to visit the Monte Palace Gardens. We had just missed the bus from Funchal town and the next one was almost an hour away so we decided to walk, without really researching. That was a mistake because the roads are anything but straight!
There were moments where I could feel my legs cramping but the views kept me going. Try this only if you are used to hiking and trekking. It is not for elementary-level walkers and definitely not for people with heart conditions or blood pressure problems. Needless to say, if you are pregnant, have kids with you or suffer from other chronic health issues, just take a cab, teleferico (cable cars available from Funchal town) or wait for the bus.

I have to admit there were times when I was questioning our sanity specially when I looked at the paths ahead...

That's really how steep the roads were!

There are sections where you will see telefericos (cable cars) go up. Telefericos go over the city and the views are fantastic ( recommended if you don't like walking but still want to enjoy the views).

Overall, the climb up was an adventure but definitely not something I would recommend. There is a lot of walking inside the Monte Palace Gardens as well so save your energy for that.

Once in the gardens, you will feel like you are in a tropical paradise - an oasis!

Perched up on a hill, these gardens are lush and bountiful with flora that is sure to wow even the cynics. They also have plenty of water features like small ponds, lakes and waterfalls which only add to the magical ambiance.

Included in the entrance ticket is a glass (tiny glass) of Madeira wine that I recommend you drink after you are done walking. Sit on the terrace and enjoy the views as you sip the island's delicacy.

We spent 6 hours inside and by the time we left the gardens, we were actually feeling fresher and less exhausted than when we arrived.

On the way, stop by at the beautiful cathedral on the hill (small hill with steps). It's really elementary level walking after all that climbing:P

View from the cathedral just after sunset.

The bus stop is a short walk down from the gardens and be sure you get there before the last bus departs towards Funchal. Of course you can always walk or sit in a cart, like these people did :)

Carts to transport people from the top of the hill

Another scenic location to visit (do this on a different day) is Pico dos Barcelos. We decided to go on a half-day tour again with Madeira Island Tours

The viewpoint is approximately 355 meters above sea level. You can enjoy panoramic views of Funchal bay, the city and its surroundings. Try and get here early so that you can enjoy this place. We also got to hear musicians playing just as the mist descended down.

Next, we passed the village of  San Antonio (this is where the famous footballer, Cristiano Ronaldo was born and raised)  as we drove towards Eira Do Serrado. Again, this is a climb and steep with sharp turns (note : consider anti-nausea medicines if you are prone to road sickness or sit next to the driver). Our driver and guide seemed very comfortable navigating (years of experience!)
Eira do Serrado is located in the mountainous interior of  Camara de Lobos.

Overlooking the Nun's valley in the crater

This is within the heart of the island and the views, needless to say, are sensational. If you are a photography enthusiast, you will have a very good time capturing the landscapes. This viewpoint overlooks the Curral das Freiras known as the Nun's Valley.
That huge crater was formed either by natural corrosion or volcanic activity. As you can see in the picture, this valley is concealed well by the surrounding mountains. The nuns of Madeira used this as their refuge when the pirates invaded the island in 1556. The brave nuns made this journey to escape torture and assault. It paid off because they found a safe haven where they could not be seen or traced. Even today, there is just one narrow winding road from down  there to civilization...

We decided to head down to the valley to actually see the place and to taste their famous chestnut cake. Luckily for us, the village market was on the same day and we had a grandmom giving us her home-baked cake. It was so good, we packed some more and carried it back to Funchal. There is a small cafe with good views in the town that also sells this cake (if you don't get the local market).

Chestnut cake - a local delicacy in the Nun's valley.

If you like wine, you've come to the right island. We decided to go on a wine tasting tour at Blandy's Wine Lodge in Funchal. Luckily for us, their last tour was in English and we managed to get that. I would recommend a trip here because it  is very educational. The guide is very patient and very willing to answer questions about the grape types used, processes etc.

 At the end of the tour, you are given 4 different wine glasses to taste. We found the bottles well-priced and it was convenient shopping here because they let you collect the bottle directly at the airport after security check (duty-free), so you don't have to worry about baggage allowance at all.


Funchal itself is very pretty. If you walk by the harbour, you will see the big ships docking or docked and some beautiful private yachts.

There is a beautiful public park facing the harbour that you must visit.

 You will also find good restaurants around this area.  You can also walk across the city to see the Santa Maria street art.

Basically, it is an initiative taken to give this area a face-lift (all done by artists). And what a visual treat it it! Walls that are painted, main doors that are painted... It's art extravaganza all over. You also have many artists and designers selling their  creations here. If you get tired of walking, you can find some good cafes and restaurants around too.

The one fish that is used extensively in Madeira is scabbard.  Another local delicacy here is limpet. Limpets are similar to oysters and they have strict rules for fishing those. You will get them if you go in summer.

Scabbard with potatoes

Seafood spaghetti Portuguese style

Cinnamon apple

A local delicacy - tasted like a semolina pudding

Bacalhau (salted cod) also makes an appearance here  (like in mainland Portugal) and it's served up in different ways. For the vegetarians, there is a huge supply of fruits and vegetables on this island but most are used in desserts (fruits) and vegetables are served as sides or in salads. If used in mains, the variety you will find will be limited (compared to the fish and meat offerings). Cheese is used extensively as is milk so if you are also lactose-intolerant, I would recommend you ask the restaurant before you order or better still make your own meals at the apartment you rent ( always a good idea if you have food intolerance or dietary restrictions) as the supermarkets are very well stocked with plenty of ingredients and spices.

There is one bread type that you must try. It's called Caco do Bolo.

It's a bread that's made using sweet potato. I will be posting the recipe later this year under food category, so stay tuned in. The one place that you should try this with a herbed butter filling/chicken filling is in the market Mercado dos Lavradores (mentioned above). The bakery, Frango do Mercado is on the ground floor facing the road. They also make delicious fresh fruit juices for you.

If you have  a sweet tooth, you will not be disappointed. Fabrica Santo Antonio is an institution (started in 1893) in the city and it has retained its look and feel. It serves only freshly baked goods and each & everything we tasted, was delicious. We also got to taste the Bolo Ferradura.

This horseshoe shaped bread is made during celebrations and it is supposed to bring prosperity and good luck to the receiver. The outer shell reminded me of churros while the inside had dried plum paste. We also got to eat fresh fruit candy, again made during celebrations. We tried the passion fruit one and boy, was it addictive!

This is also the place that sells the Madeira Cake. Now, I know that everyone has a recipe for Madeira Cake but when I actually tried the original recipe developed on the island, it was nowhere close to what we eat all over the world!

If chocolates are what you crave, you must try out the delicious ones on offer at Uau Cacau. It's a beautiful shop in a by-lane and a must-visit.

They have different flavoured ones (like the local favourite Poncha).
So, what's Poncha? Poncha is a local alcoholic beverage using rum and orange juice. The recipe varies from family to family and I am going to cover one such recipe on the website (in a month) so look out for it under the food category on my website.

On our departure date, we went to the airport on a beautiful sunny day (appearances can be deceptive when you are on an island). As we waited to be called for security check, we realized many flights before ours were being cancelled. We studied the online display and realized, there was no pattern. Flights from all destinations were being cancelled. We looked at each other worried. We stepped out into what we thought was a perfect day unaware that the Atlantic Ocean was anything but calm. In fact the cross winds that I mentioned at the start of this article were in full swing and hampering all landing efforts by all airlines that wanted to approach the island. Rapidly all the flights scheduled for arrival and departure got cancelled. We wondered if we were going to be forced to spend the night at the airport. The airport stepped up. They organized meal coupons for everyone (issued by airlines). The airport was in immaculate condition (the toilets sparkling clean). There were enough food and water supplies even after they were struggling to cope with thousands of stranded passengers who were irritable, tired, hungry, thirsty and worried. The authorities were kind and patient when asked questions and our airline in particular was impressive. In fact, I have always been very impressed with Transavia's (Transavia is a part of KLM) service over the years. This time was no different. They organized overnight stays for us at a hotel close by (the hotel was a 4-star hotel) and they also gave us a complimentary breakfast buffet before we were picked up and taken to the airport the following day.
When we did finally board our new rescheduled flight, the pilot explained to us the situation (the earlier evening) and also gave us free in-flight service on the way back home. If this doesn't get you customer loyalty, I doubt anything else will. They stepped up and took control when it mattered and throughout, they considered our safety & well-being over profits.

Overall, this trip was full of adventure, drama and educational.  It tested my endurance levels mentally and physically. It was unlike anything I have ever seen or done and that's a good thing sometimes. You discover a new side to yourself that you didn't even know existed.

For any questions, comments or feedback, use the form below.

Thank you/ obrigado! :)


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