Moselle Valley - Germany

This article is specially for the wine aficionados, nature lovers, culture seekers and just good ol' regular trekkers.

Over the multiple trips I have made over the years, I have been impressed with Moselle valley and what it has to offer. The majestic Moselle river runs through Germany's western side and has tiny villages along the way. Most of them are known to grow grapes while some depend heavily on tourism that supports the wine industry.

If you intend traveling from outside Europe, you need to land into Frankfurt and then take a train/drive. As always, please pre-check if your driving permit is valid in Germany or they will refuse to give you a car at the airport. If you would rather not get hassled and are not comfortable using the autobahns, the Deutsche Bahn is a great and affordable way to travel. Start by stopping at the Cochem ( pronounced Ko-Khem)Station.
Cochem lies around 83 meters above sea level. It dates back to the Roman and Celtic period. Much of the town was destroyed during the Second World War. It was slowly restored over the years.

Reichsburg Castle

Where do you stay and how much will you spend?
Cochem is divided by the Moselle river into two areas. On one side is the old town and all the eateries & shops (along with a few gorgeous B&Bs on the waterfront).
The other side (across the bridge) is more local and residential. However, that side does have a Mustard Museum (a must-visit to pick up unusual flavours of mustard. Don't forget to taste the Apple mustard. It's delicious!)

There are enough B&Bs, apartments and small hotels to choose from near the old town. If you don't have access to a car,  this is a good idea because you will need to walk around for eating, drinking and sightseeing.
You can expect to spend about 50-80 euros/night for an average clean room during off season (March to May, Oct onwards). Most places offer you quality breakfast at 8-10 euros pp and I personally think that's a great deal for a buffet comprising eggs, cereal, cold salad, cold cuts, toasts, choice of drinks, cakes and cookies. If you are a vegan, you will find soya or almond milk.
A main course will set you back by 15 euros per person per meal (drink included). German portions are big so I would recommend getting one dish and splitting it before you order any more. We have healthy appetites and we always struggle to finish our food.

What should you do when in Cochem?
Walk.
As always, the best way to explore a city or town is to walk. I recommend you start with a walk to the Castle Reichsburg (picture above).

Slightly steep (for regular walkers), steep for inexperienced walkers and a walk in the park for active, athletic people, this castle has good paved roads mostly but there are also cobbled roads. Good, sturdy footwear is a necessity.
 On the way you will pass some vineyards and plantations and it's nice to see the views change as you climb steadily. If you are there a little before the grapes are picked in August, you will see ripe, juicy grapes on the way. Make sure you check out their timings as they shut earlier in spring and autumn.

This region is known for its wine making and you should go explore the many wine bars the town has.
Goebel Schleyer (in the old town) stocks a good collection of wines. They also have very good cooking and dressing oils if you are fond of cooking.
At the back, facing the river, they also have a cafe where they serve you ice creams, sundaes, drinks and cakes. It's always crowded so try and time your visit before late evenings and avoid the lunch breaks.

The one thing you should not leave without tasting (and then buying, if you like it) is wine jelly. It comes in two kinds. White wine jelly and Red wine jelly.  They taste delicious and taste great on toasts or with salt-free crackers. I always buy mine from Goebel. Please note - This is actual wine that's been gelified so off limits for kids, pregnant women, lactating women or people having dietary restrictions.

Another place that you can visit is the Bundesbank Bunker Museum. As the name suggests, this is an underground vault where money  (Deutsche Mark) was once stored. They do have English tours during peak season. Tours typically last 40 minutes to an hour. Entry price is 4 euros per person and there are shuttle buses that leave from the old city or you can choose to walk. You need  to walk some slopes and climb up a few steps....
 Make sure you get there before 2 pm because they shut early. You can find more details on their website.

The old market square where the town hall (Rathaus) is situated is simply stunning. It has beautiful architecture all around. I prefer being there at dusk when the crowds disperse. As the skies turn dark and lights sparkle, the town looks magical.

Town Hall

There is an old cafe (looks like a tearoom) adjacent to the Rathaus run by a grandmom (oma) and her granddaughter that serves the most amazing chicken soup and pastries. They aren't very fluent in English so if you can't converse in German, speak slowly and show them what you would like from their display. It has all sorts of delicious tarts, pastries, sandwiches etc. They bring your order to your table.

For your reference - Bitte (pronounced Bit-tuh) is Please
                                  Danke Schoen (pronounced  Daank-kuh Show-nn) is Thank you very much
                         
If you use some basic German words with the locals, they appreciate it.

For those of you interested in boat rides, do take a boat ride on the Moselle (only in season). It's not cheap but the ride is scenic and very enjoyable. You pass several small villages and you can take tickets to whichever village you want to go to.

At one time, we stayed in Bernkastel- Keus, hiked to Traben- Trarbach and took a one-way boat ride back to Bernkastel.
The hike to Traben- Trarbach is through slopes and a forest and though very scenic, can be exhausting if you aren't used to hiking/trekking. It takes around 3.5 hours if you keep a steady pace.

 If you enjoy hiking, head over to the Erlebnisweg Tal der Wilden. Drive to the parking lot and then walk towards the waterfall. As always, carry enough supplies of water, etc and wear good trekking shoes. The water is clear and the area is wooded and beautiful. Do not try walking all the way (if you are inexperienced) as it's a long way from Cochem. You can read about it online or ask at the tourist information center for details about the bus system.

Traben-Trarbach is an equally quaint area to base yourself in and you can find quality lodging for good prices. There are a great selection of cafes and restaurants that you can eat at. We  enjoyed some cold treats after that rather adventurous trek across various towns.

Traben-Trarbach old town

If you have dietary constraints, make sure you mention that to the host/hostess. Most restaurants and cafes are family-run establishments and they are willing to make you something.
Bernkastel like Cochem, has a beautiful town square with many local shops selling candies, local goods and of course,  many family-run wine bars. There is one that is perched up on a hill and you can climb up through the vineyards to get there. Go at dusk. The views are breath-taking.

Bernkastel town

 If you want to be in this region during the wine festival in late summer, you will find room rates have gone up 4 times. Collectors from all over descend here to buy bottles and for tastings that are organized at several bars across town. Evenings are festive with LIVE music and tapas. Overall, the ambiance is unbeatable and you are sure to have a great time.

I always enjoy the time I spend in the valley. I toss my phone and forget about emails, meetings and schedules. Look at the views. Can you blame me? :D

View from our room in the morning

For comments/questions, feel free to use the form below. Thank you for reading. Danke Schoen!