Sri Lanka

"Sri Lanka is just a small island". "There isn't much to do there". 

"You have so many beautiful places to visit around your country, why don't you cover those instead?"

 

Just some of the suggestions that were put forward when I came up with Sri Lanka as a possible holiday destination a few years ago. 

I kept my plans on hold till I could get in more research. In mid 2018 one of my friends here in The Netherlands mentioned about her travels to Sri Lanka and it rekindled my interest in the country all over again. I figured it would be foolish if I didn't act upon it. So my husband and I decided to do an Asia-special  in Dec 2019- Jan2020. The plan? A few places in India and Sri Lanka.

Was Sri Lanka small? Yes. Was there much to do there? Yes! In fact a lot! 

Was there much to see there? Oh yes! In fact, we would have loved an additional 5 days at least to cover a few more places. 

Why don't I or didn't I cover the places around NL instead? Simply because I love to explore new places, cultures and taste different cuisines. 

Frangipani flowers

Traveling half way across the world might of course not be everyone's cup of tea. Which is why we are here. So that I can virtually take you to this absolutely stunning island and give you a glimpse of what is really out there and what you can expect for your money. We did just 7 days and I personally found it rushed and we couldn't cover the north or the elephant sanctuary. I know many tour companies offer to show you the entire island in 7 days. My advice is don't do that. There's no point in just getting into a place and saying good bye to it before you can even explore it. Instead do just a few places so that you get a real feel of the place, get to know the culture, taste their delicacies and of course, enjoy your holiday. 

You can expect to spend about 45-180 euros per night on accommodation (based on what kind of luxury you want). The smaller boutique hotels seem to be more expensive but they offer a unique experience. We did a combination of luxury and boutique and came back very satisfied. 

Eating out isn't expensive (well, I base my judgement on Dutch standards of course). A luxurious meal (with seafood) with drinks for 2 should set you back by 25 euros. Also, meals in Sri Lanka are shared (at traditional places) unlike meals here in Europe(which are by the plate per person) so you always get very good value for money and get to taste variety. 

First things first, always figure out where your interest levels are - do you like beaches? Or do you want a cultural/religious experience? Do you want to go on a culinary journey or are you interested in a de-stressing holiday? Sri Lanka has it all. In fact I was rather surprised with how much this tiny island has. Their tourism industry has suffered a lot and the Xmas bombing didn't help but I can tell you that it's perfectly safe and the government has done a great job in keeping all the public spaces including the approach roads to the airport guarded and well protected. Never in the 7 days that I was there did I ever feel worried or intimidated. For Europeans, they have also kept visa on arrival and e-visas which you get online before your trip. Make sure you have your reservations in place before you apply. 

We traveled from Mumbai International airport, India with Vistara Airways. I have to admit their service and overall professionalism exceeded my expectations and they served us a lunch-dessert meal on board as well. The seats are comfortable and there seems to be enough distance between the rows so you don't feel claustrophobic. I am glad we chose to fly with them even though they were more expensive. 

The journey wasn't too long but when the experience is so good, it makes your journey memorable. 

Next, how do you travel within the country? I would recommend going with one of the local tour companies to get one of their drivers who also then acts as your guide. 

An important thing to remember is to get your currency exchanged at the airport when you land. There are other places around, but we found the exchange rate at the airport the best. Most places that are small, prefer cash transactions so it's good to have some with you. We exchanged the equivalent of 300 euros for 8 days and though we used our cards at the bigger places, in shops and malls or even restaurants on the way, we used up the cash.  

We decided to get the help of a local company, Ceylon Tours to show us around (there are many travel groups and individuals who act as guides. We went with TripAdvisor & recommendations from friends). We were met at the airport with garlands. We felt like VIPs :) Our AC van had a huge stock of mineral water bottles so that was good thinking on their part. The driver/guide was always smiling and enthusiastic. Always very eager to point out the local haunts and non-touristy places. 

We started our trip in Galle. Galle is on the south-west tip of the island and used to be the main port of the island. The drive from the airport to Galle takes about 2.5 hours. The roads are really good. The landscape kept changing from urban to rural.

Galle is the best example of a fortified city and to date it's a delight for design and architecture enthusiasts. The facades of some of the old buildings definitely deserve a mention. The city was extensively fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century. The Galle Fort is a world heritage sight and is possibly the largest and only fortress that survives. 

Overall, Galle is beautiful. I enjoyed looking at the various facades and also, happened to find the local library and old post office. 

Buddhist Temple

The numerous cafes, restaurants, coffee houses and local shops have an unmistakable charm. The desserts are delicious. Most of them have some coconut flavour. But if you don't like coconut, you will still have the usual ice cream/brownie desserts available.

Their interiors take you back in time and there is an intoxicating fresh fragrance in the air (most of the spices that you know of can be bought in Sri Lanka). 

Everywhere we went, locals were friendly and extremely courteous. They are very proud of their country and it shows in the way they talk about it. Another thing I noticed was how clean the entire island was. No filth, no littering. The buildings and their front yards are swept and wiped every morning. 

As someone who is very finicky about hygiene, I have to mention that even the public loos at the stops we took along the way through out the trip were sparkling clean. 

 Our boutique hotel in Galle was at walking distance from most sights of interests.

We stayed 2 nights in Galle and I personally felt it was too short. There is much to see in Galle specially if you like architecture. The fort and lighthouse is a big draw for most tourists. I decided to wander the many streets absorbing the sights and sounds. Also, I wanted to check out The Dutch Hospital as plenty of friends had told me about the many cafes and shops within it.

Dutch Hospital

Definitely visit but don't go with high expectation about food and drink. There are other places that are better (wrt variety and price) but yes, the views of the ocean are unrivaled from here so worth a drink and snack. The tiny shops around are tempting. Sri Lanka is known for its spices but also well-priced gems. So you will plenty of jewelry stores that cater to all levels of interests. 

We found a really huge supermarket in Galle where we bought snacks but it's unnecessary given how many cafes and restaurants are all around. Try and avoid tourist traps and try the local cuisine. Rich in flavours with coconut used generously, you can inform the staff about your preferences wrt the pungency levels you are comfortable with, food allergies etc. and I am sure you won't come back disappointed. 

Seafood is naturally a highlight on most menus given the proximity to the ocean. However, the vegetarians need not despair. They have a staggering amount of vegetarian options to keep you pampered. 

Star fruit with watermelon and home-made yoghurt.

Thank you to the next table for allowing me this photo:)

 I had tried the Kotu Roti at a Sri Lankan restaurant in Neurenberg, Germany somewhere in 2016. That was the first time I had tried this cuisine and my expectations were not just met but the food quality was so good, I was satiated. So in a way, I knew what to expect in terms of flavours but of course, when you eat at the actual destination where it's not diluted for foreigners, the flavours are different. Also, the ambiance is what adds that extra allure. They use generous quantity of pepper so if you find that a problem, make sure you inform your hosts or the establishment you are dining at. 

From Galle, we drove to Unawatuna for some beach time.

 The sea was pretty rough and there were rip tides so swimming was not possible. The next day some of us decided to snorkel but again, the sea was too rough. We chose to absorb some sun, have a few drinks and enjoy some local fish delicacies at a beach cafe while here. 

Unawatuna is also home to the Turtle Conservation Park. They rescue injured turtles and take care of them. They also collect the eggs that the mothers lay on the beach and then nurture them till they hatch. The marine scientist who was talking to us was very passionate about the project and I got to learn a lot about these reclusive creatures. Did you know that baby turtles do not recognize their own mothers and that turtles do not feel any emotions like humans would and that they are solitary creatures? I was a little amazed to see that after this, there was an older turtle who swam towards the scientist and allowed him to pet him. Here's a photo. 

A baby turtle

An injured turtle

Young Adult came by towards the marine scientist

Overall, the trip was an eye-opener and the team is doing an excellent job. 

From Galle, we decided to drive to The famous Yala National Park for a night's stay.  Most people choose to spend a couple of nights on the coast like Mirissa which is along the way. Highly recommend it if you are on a leisurely break and love the ocean. This is is also the place to visit if you want to go whale watching. Boats leave at 4:30 am every morning during season. Worth visiting if you love marine life. 

The Yala National Park reserve is the most visited and the second largest national park in Sri Lanka. We stayed at a beautiful nature reserve property that is managed by army personnel. Most of the rooms face the ocean and to wake up to these views is a real treat. It's interesting to know that Yala which is  nearly the southern most tip of the island ( Mirissa is the southern most tip), is the last land mass there is before the land mass of Antartica (down South)!!

Have a look at some photos...

View from our room

To get to the park, you can ask your hotel to reserve a spot for you. We had a car coming to get us. Please wear sensible clothing, specially if you are prone to mosquito bites and since the jeep is open, it makes sense not to draw attention to yourself while at the reserve. We saw peacocks, elephants, bisons, giraffes, crocodiles eating a buffalo (yes, not the most pleasant sight or smells!) and different species of birds. 

A peacock dancing to attract a peahen

The safari was about 3 hours long excluding the travel time.

 Dinner at the hotel was good and satisfied our cravings for warm and tasty food. 

A fiery chicken dish

Kotu Roti

A word of caution : The approach roads to the resort were rough and some sections towards the park were rough as well so if you are pregnant or have back or neck problems, it would be advisable to skip the above and head to the next destination. 

From Yala, we were supposed to drive up to Nuwara Eliya. I say 'up' because it's a hill station. At a height of 1868 m,  it is considered the most important location for tea production. However, before I get into explaining about Nuwara Eliya, let me take you on a short detour first to The Ravana Falls and then into a town called Ella. 

The Ravana Falls is a gigantic waterfall that cascades down from almost 25 mts above.

 These falls cover/disguise a cave called the Ravana Ella Cave. This cave lies almost 1370 mts above sea level. Our driver told us that when excavations were carried out, archaeologists found evidence of human habitation dating back to 25,000 years! The falls are just magnificent and you don't want to tear yourself away from them but we had to go to see the 9-arch bridge next so we had to get back into our car. 

Many of our friends chose to stay in Ella but because we didn't have too many days, we decided to go to see the famous 9-arch bridge before we took a lunch stop. This is a via-duct bridge set in lush greenery. It's an area of outstanding natural beauty that needs to be seen. The 9-arch bridge is one of the best examples of colonial-era railway construction in the country. 

You can't drive all the way to the bridge. You have to trek and it's a long way down. The helpful locals offered us tips including an extremely steep road to get there fast. I was convinced I was going to break a bone or two if I followed them so I decided to just take the long route instead. We didn't get very far before the sun started getting aggressive and we started getting dehydrated. With just a  bottle of water left between us, we decided that the wisest strategy was to head back to the car. It's a shame really. We could have planned this better and reached here earlier so that we would have managed to trek all the way to the bridge. The real highlight is if you see a train go past. We didn't see any so all I can show you are pictures of the bridge and the surrounding greenery.

The place that we stopped by for lunch was really good. It's owned by a Sri Lankan man and his Japanese wife. I have to admit, the food was really good. Well seasoned, fresh ingredients and reasonably priced. The restaurant itself was immaculate in terms of cleanliness.

The place is mid-sized and even for lunch, it was comfortably packed. If you are going here for dinner, I would recommend making reservations. 

Nuwara Eliya was about 3.5 hours from here. The roads started getting winding and narrow. Remember my Madeira article? Well, this was part 2 for me. Even with a pressure band (helps with motion sickness), I was getting giddy so the driver stopped when he could and allowed me to get off and get a breath of fresh air. The added complication here was that they have regular avalanches so part of the road is always sealed off. That just means a narrower road and traffic so it was not always possible for him to stop but he did his best to help.  

Tea plantation

Access road to the plantation

What really made it all go away was when we finally reached The Grand Hotel in Nuwara Eliya. 

What a gorgeous estate! Needs to be seen. The rooms are a bit dated but they have elegance oozing out of them. The spa is just perfect and the staff is very well trained. I got myself a traditional Sri Lankan massage. The pool is very well-maintained as is their sauna room and gym. 

The staff is always available if you need them. The food of course, was a real highlight. We started with a high-tea party and then made space for a light dinner and desserts at their restaurant. 

It was noticeably cooler in the evening and some Sri Lankan tea warmed us up. The breakfast was just as grand and buffet style with a mind-boggling variety of food. I always over eat at these places and never regret it either. If you are going all the way here, do not spend less than 3 nights. It's too far and too beautiful and deserves those extra hours. We walked around the town and enjoyed a few sights.

We also visited the tea plantation and sampled different tea types. We did go overboard and bought more than we needed :) 

The drive to Mount Lavinia was long and tiring. Mount Lavinia is a suburb of Colombo. It's relatively quiet so we decided to stay there. There was a religious holiday on that day so everything was shut on the way. Luckily our driver found us a small establishment to eat at. The food was local and the place looked clean. I decided to skip lunch as I had had a very heavy breakfast. The traffic made a long  journey, longer. We were on the road for close to 9 hours and it wasn't pleasant. By the time we reached our heritage hotel ( Hotel Mt Lavinia), most of us had bad headaches or were dehydrated (as we didn't really have options to take toilet breaks, we drank less water). The Hotel is a heritage property and has quite a history. Our rooms were facing the sea. The hotel is located on a beach and in the evenings they have seafood (served to suit your taste) on the beach with candle lights. 

 We quickly ordered room service and ate a simple meal of fried rice and fish. We didn't realize just how hungry we were after that long journey. After a nice relaxing shower, we fell asleep. 

View from our sea-front room

Train tracks next to the sea

The next morning, we had a a nice filling breakfast and decided to go on a city tour. This place has a buffet with all the continental fare you would like and just stuff that you could crave - like a burger!

Fish burger!

Colombo is a busy city and there is a certain charm in being a part of the hustle-bustle. Our driver made us walk through a particularly crowded stretch in the Pettah to see this beautiful mosque.

The Jami-ul-alfar mosque with its distinct red and white candy stripes stood out even from a distance. It's got a very unique style of architecture that has elements from Indo Islamic, Indian, Gothic Revival and neo-classical. This mosque dates back to 1908 and as you can see, is very well maintained even today.  

Busy streets

The one place that we were keen on seeing is architect Geoffrey Bawa's former studio. It's now converted into a restaurant/cafe, an exposition space and has a small shop by Paradise Cafe.

Paradise Cafe has some great furnishings designed by local artists. There is another place in both Galle and Colombo called Odelle that sells great clothes in cotton along with home furnishings. Paradise Cafe is slightly more expensive but the stuff we picked up from both places is unique and suits our home very well. If you want to buy at Odelle, I would recommend the Galle one. I personally found it better stocked. 

When in Colombo, the one place that you must eat at is Upali's.  The food was outstanding. It's a local favourite so expect plenty of crowds and if really busy you might have to wait to be seated. It's not a fancy place in terms of its design but is really clean, comfortable and well-kempt. Everything served is made fresh so expect the best on your plate. We tried seafood & some vegetarian fare. Every thing was really well prepared and not very pungent. If there is one dish I could pack and bring with me back home, it would have to be their version of a crab curry. 

Crab Curry

Dessert made with jaggery

It reminded me of  the crab dish my grandmom made. Here's the recipe link for my grandmom's crab dish. Also, this delicious Crab dish we ate at Ramiro while in Lisbon. 

Overall, we could have managed a lot more sightseeing but we chose not to simply because we intend going back to cover the northern stretch once this pandemic ends. If you want to vacation in a country that has an old charm, plenty of culture, offers you great weather, fabulous cuisine along with magnificent sun and sand, visit Sri Lanka. You really will not regret it. 

A few tips on what you can buy - Spices ( Cinnamon, black pepper and cloves), cotton home upholstery like pillow  covers and shirts, natural soaps, dried banana chips, coconut based sweets, traditional masks and figurines (at the handloom house for the best rates), jackfruit chips and tea leaves (at the tea estates).  

Oh and don't forget to have fresh coconut water when you are traveling. Hydrating, healthy, absolutely fresh and delicious:)

As always, feel free to drop me a comment or send me an email if you have any questions or just to say hi! Thank you for reading:)