Broken Rice - Part 1

 As promised, here’s a guest article that I am delighted to publish. It is written by Lily Chang from Vietnam. Lily is going to teach us how to make Broken Rice.  This dish has an almost iconic status (more about it in Lily's introduction). As is expected, when a dish is so famous, you will find many kinds (versions/variations) available.  Lily has very painstakingly listed down what makes the dish authentic and how to identify it. 

To make it simple for amateurs, she has broken down the recipe into different components so it’s easier to cook. It’s possible to make some of them a day earlier so that you don’t feel rushed on the day that you want to enjoy it.

Most of the ingredients should be easily available at your local Oriental Store. If not, you can search for alternatives. To make it easier to read and comprehend, I have split the article into two. This article is Lily’s introduction to her country, this dish and her memories of it. The next article is her recipe with notes. After her recipe, I have put down a list of substitutes that might work if you are unable to find what Lily has listed down. 

I have to thank Lily for her dedication, intensive research and her patience. She had her article ready late last year but because of my hand injury, I was unable to edit or publish it. Apologies for the delay and on to Lily's article now...

 

Introduction by Lily Chang

Broken Rice.

This is a dish that is very dear to my people, especially in Saigon (the old name of Ho Chi Minh City), which is in the South. Diners, depending on their preferences, can eat broken rice with accompanying dishes such as grilled pork chops, shredded pork skin, steamed pork and egg patty or fried eggs.

It’s important that the rice be cooked using broken rice. This is an irreplaceable ingredient. If cooked with normal whole grain rice, it is not called Broken Rice. There are a few eateries that write, “Broken Rice” on their display boards, but they cook using the whole rice type. Of course it is also a dish, however, a variation. If you have tasted the authentic dish, you will not go back to that eatery again.

The broken rice texture is what gives the dish its true character.  It seems easier to chew because it is already semi-pureed and leaves a pleasant taste in the mouth. Broken rice is basically rice that has been removed from the whole grain filter. In the olden days, this rice was cheaper than whole grain rice, so this dish was mainly intended for the working class and the poor. Workers only needed to eat a plate of broken rice with grilled meat early mornings and they had the energy and stamina to work hard until noon. Today, this dish has gotten so popular that Broken Rice comes at a premium. Sometimes, the price of rice is so high that the workers find it unaffordable. What’s more, to meet the demand, the whole grains are ground into broken rice!

I have fond memories of growing up with this dish. When I was in 5th grade, I started going to school on my own (unaccompanied). Every morning, before going to school, my mother would give me some money to buy breakfast. In Vietnam, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to breakfast options. 

In  Wet dishes (with curry/liquid), there are Pho, Bun Bo Hue, Banh Canh, Bun Rieu, Hu Tieu...

In Dry dishes, there are Banh Mi, Banh Cuon, Xoi ...

The eatery couldn’t be spotted (infact it would be miles away) but the tantalizing fragrance of grilled meats would draw me towards the place.

Typically, children's Broken Rice plates are smaller than adults’, but they are decorated beautifully by the seller. Each plate has a little bit of each of the components (you will read about these in my recipe) just to make it attractive for a child.

I remember how the plate of rice was always steaming hot, the fragrant, tender grilled meat was arranged perfectly, the wood-ear mushrooms in egg patty were unfailingly crispy, the shredded pork skins resembled dancers on a plate of white rice…

Fish sauce was and continues to be, very special to me. Stored in a glass jar, I always admired the yellow-brown colour. With just the right hints of sour, sweet, and salty, it’s extremely versatile in its use. Pair it with a few water Spinach pickles, a cup of soup, and it’s a special meal! There was also a time, when I imitated an adult and put some chili on my plate. It was so pungent, I cried…lesson learned!

I am really happy that I get to teach you how to make Broken Rice here on Aajisthaali. Of course, I am not a culinary expert or even an exceptional chef, but I'm pretty confident about my skills. My mother sold this dish near a school the entire time that I was in middle and high school. Over the years, I assisted her and observed every step from prep work, cooking, selling and of course, the most important step - cleaning. When I went to university (far away from home), and could no longer help, she quit selling Broken Rice. Although my mom has considerable expertise in the kitchen, she really doesn't have any written recipes. In order to write this article, I had to consult with many sources, then consult my mother and of course, my experiences in helping my mother came handy. I cooked and took notes to make it easy for you. You can rest assured that the process will be easy to follow if you follow my steps. But everyone's taste is different. Please adjust the ingredients/seasoning to suit your own taste. There is no need to be intimidated. Though there are many Broken rice eateries in Vietnam, none of them cook alike. So, what you do create, will be unique. Of course, if you would like to taste what we eat, you have to come to Vietnam and experience it in person. For more about my country and life in Vietnam, my Instagram IDs are @lilychangvn & @lilychangart 

Thank you and see you in the kitchen on Friday March 12, 2021!

Lily

Please note: All photograph(s) and text have copyrights in place. Please ask for written permission from Lily or Aajisthaali before you choose to reproduce it on your own website/blog or elsewhere.